japanese | Life in Orange

Have you ever watched sumo wrestling?

When I heard of the grand sumo tournament happening in Osaka I thought I needed to get tickets. They were sold out online so the only way was for me to get up early in the morning (five a.m.) and queue hoping for a ticket. And it worked!

The crowd started small at nine in the morning to watch junior fighters compete. In the afternoon more skilled and high-ranked wrestlers faced each other, which made fights more exciting. Those who had more wins than losses in the game moved up the hierarchy while those who lost got demoted. The winner was handed a closed envelop (probably cash) at the end of every match. I tried to get more information about the rules of the game from Japanese spectators. One big sumo fan university student explained that the game was all about “pushing” and “pulling”. In both cases, a player aims to destabilize another by either making him fall and touch the ground or kicking him out of the ring.

Sumo wrestlers had to put on weight and were asked in stables, which are accommodations where they lived and trained, to eat certain types of food and drinks including a high-in-calories stew. It is not until many of them suffered from diabetes and others died at the age of 65 (which makes sumo an unhealthy sport – ironically) that rules became a little more lenient. The concluding match took part that day late in the evening. After a long introduction of who the players were, their ranks and them posing with the mawashis they were wearing (check the photos below), it took only a couple of seconds before one of the wrestlers got thrown out of the ring. That was the end – I literally spent about 12 hours watching sumo wrestling waiting for the final match which ended in like 10 seconds.

While you’re in Osaka, Osaka castle is totally worth a visit. It is one of the biggest in size in Japan. Major battles between different clans including shoguns (rulers appointed by the emperor) were fought there. The castle has been destroyed several times to be rebuilt again, kind of symbolizing the rise and fall of the country’s history. The outer moat and tower give you an idea on how this building must have been besieged back in the 1600s.

Because no distance is too far in Japan, I made two trips from Osaka: to Kobe, which reminded me so much of the coastal city of Jounieh in Lebanon with its green mountains looking down onto the sea. I walked around its small hills where you can still see western designed houses. These go back to the 19th century when the city opened up to foreign trade – and Japan was forced to come out of its isolation. Most European style houses were inhabited by foreign merchants and diplomats. Starbucks managed to use one (damn it!)

When I walked into a local standing bar, waitresses and clients started cheering – a tradition that always makes you feel welcome and want to drink more. I had a couple of beers with two Japanese salarymen. Luckily one of them spoke English so I started bombarding him with questions about the country. He was very much pro-peace and said “although Japanese people have concerns about North Korea and China, most of them don’t want to go through war again”. This was in response to my question about article 9 – which is “a clause in the constitution outlawing war as a means to settle international disputes involving the State”. However, he was not happy with Japan “being dependent on other countries for its security or having several US military bases”. He recommended that I visit Hiroshima – which I was going to of course – and that I try the Kobe beef steak while I’m here. I did; medium rare with nothing more than pepper and salt. It just melts in your mouth with its soft, succulent flavor. The next day I took the early Shinkansen to Hiroshima, 330 Km away from Osaka (and back in one day!).

Kyoto station is out of this world. It is an attraction eleven stories high, packed with shops, bars and quality restaurants with views over the city. It has a very futuristic design with a curvy metal roof and “sky walkways”. You can walk slowly up there and enjoy the stunning night view of Kyoto. Underneath is another endless underground mall with its own ‘restaurant street’. I have never seen a train station that is a fun place to hang out. And people do: they go to the station to have a romantic dinner. Kyoto made what is in many cities a magnet for street crime into a popular local hotspot. It says a lot about how the Japanese manage their society: planning, design, cleanliness, quality.

Kyoto is a more compact city than Tokyo. It has a relaxed atmosphere and people seem less stressed and hurried. It is a perfect place to cycle as it is mostly flat with reasonable traffic. In Tokyo, cyclists were going on side walks which was always confusing to me.

It was the beginning of the blossom season in Kyoto and I was lucky to see blossoming trees around the colorful shrines and temples I visited. There are hundreds of them, so again get the Lonely Planet and pick what you want to see. Before leaving the city, I stopped at Fushimi Inari Taisha, a series of orange arcades that make up a shrine on a mountain. One temple and one shrine, that was it for me. I walked around Nishiki, the city’s public market where I tried a variety of exotic pickles, fish, meat and sweets. Rain was my excuse to spend long hours there and taste all I can eat.

In the evening, I strolled down Gion, the geisha district, hoping I see one. I managed to get a glimpse of two who vanished quickly behind closed doors. A geisha is a traditional female entertainer (not prostitute) for men. Her work includes talking about arts, music, poetry, politics and also dancing. Not too far from this quarter are many nice bars in alleys – most of them with a cover charge.

At the base of Kyoto’s mountains to the west is the Arashiyama Bamboo forest, reached by walking through a temple. It is a perfect place for photos, with the rays of light falling through the very tall bamboo trees. I gave it up soon enough though, as it turned out to be impossible not to have a tourist taking a selfie in the picture. Next to the forest is an amazing Japanese garden, built by a famous Japanese samurai-actor in the sixties. It is endless perfection, with plants manicured and positioned to flank the most beautiful views of Kyoto while you make your way on a meandering garden path. The amount of work that must be put into keeping it neat and pretty is unbelievable.

On my last sunny day in the city, I joined a group of Japanese who were having a short getaway in Kyoto. We took a three-hour boat trip gazing at the beautiful scenery in the valley, watching trains passing on bridges above the river; trees covering the mountains on both sides – it reminded me a bit of Nahr Ibrahim in Lebanon – until we arrived back to Kyoto.

Four days later, it was time to go. While waiting for the subway to catch a bullet train to Osaka, a couple of 7 or 8 year old kids in their school uniforms were taking the bustling subway by themselves. I looked around, there were no adults with them. I was almost tempted to ask them if they were lost or looking for their parents. Then I understood that it is common (and safe) for very young children to meet their parents everyday after school.

Thirty minutes in the Shinkansen and here I was in Osaka (about 55 Km away). It is amazing how much distance doesn’t matter when you have a functioning transportation system. This reminded me painfully of all the hours I wasted in traffic jams in Beirut. At Christmas it took me up to two hours to get from Hamra to Ashrafieh (7 km) by car – totally insane.

More on Osaka and other places in my next post!