Beirut is broken

One month after the devastating explosion in Beirut, the terrible news keeps coming: people still trapped under the rubble (one thought to be alive!), others missing, more than 150 dead and 6000 injured, hundreds of lost pets and countless restaurants, cafés, shops and other local businesses completely destroyed. 

Since I left Lebanon four years ago, I never felt as sad and angry as I did in the past month. It’s been a roller coaster of emotions. I clung to Facebook, Twitter, Lebanese TV channels (which I never used to watch even when I was in Lebanon) and international newspapers in an attempt to understand how this disaster happened and, more so, not to miss a single story, since four August. Fear for my friends and family (none of whom are ‘okay’, but at least they’re safe and alive) and sadness about the fate of my people turned into anger at this disgusting, incompetent and rotten political class as well as at those who are loyal to them; then into frustration and helplessness for not being physically present in Beirut.

Besides the tragic and heartbreaking stories I saw — about mothers and fathers losing children, spouses and siblings being buried, classmates, friends, colleagues, passers-by or people at home maimed while going about their day, business owners losing their entire life’s investments, houses that are no longer habitable (more than 300,000 people left homeless), cars completely destroyed — it was and is painful to see friends and acquaintances who have dedicated their lives to making their passion a reality, be it through museum exhibitions or theatre or art or music or festivals or poetry or anything else that gives meaning to life, lose it all. They offered it to everyone else in the society to celebrate and enjoy, and now it is gone. 

A few days after the explosion came the feeling of guilt. For living in a functioning country, for having good roads, electricity, water, health care, education, freedom and accountability. It is almost perfect. There is barely anything to complain about. I felt privileged. Why me? After that, anger surfaced again, this time at those around me moving on with their lives like nothing happened. I felt like yelling: Beirut is destroyed! Don’t you see? Nothing meant anything anymore. On a Saturday morning, I had a long run for Beirut, wearing a T-shirt from the 2015 Beirut marathon. I wanted people in the Vondelpark to see the word Beirut, to think about it.

I spread the word about which organizations to donate to, individual Lebanese who needed help rebuilding their shops and restaurants. I talked a lot with my family in Lebanon, trying to understand the present and the future. Where did the ammonium nitrate come from? How long has it been there (since 2013)? Who stores fireworks next to such an explosive material? Are we sure it was not an Israeli missile? Was Hezbollah storing weapons there? Will any politician or senior government official be held accountable? If so, when? What’s the scale of the destruction (more than you can imagine)? How does my street look like (you won’t recognize it)? Is the apartment I lived in damaged? Do you know if the two old ladies running the small shop in Mar Mikhail street were hurt (they’re alive)? How is the situation with corona after this catastrophe (hospitals are overwhelmed)? Are NGOs getting the aid money or the government (bunch of thieves)? What can I do to help from The Netherlands? Do you think I should come?

There was no more talk about hope and resilience, about Beirut the city that is full of life despite everything, yadda yadda yadda. Only misery across the country. Will this bring any change? I doubt it. But I can’t see how it can get any worse. So it must get better.

I retweeted this image a while ago – (if you know who the designer is, please
mention him / her in the comments).

A year in pictures

Looking back on the past twelve months: family time, travel, celebrations, love and nature

Meeting my sister at Amsterdam airport Schiphol. The feeling you get when seeing a loved one after a long time (a year or so) is an overwhelming happiness.
The new addition to the family: Wolf (a She wolf). Needless to stay, she is the cutest thing ever! A Stabyhoun, originally from Friesland in the north of The Netherlands, this furry friend follows me everywhere I go and watches every move I make. Wolfie (her nickname) is sweet, smart and a little stubborn on occasion.
King’s Day in Amsterdam in April. Everyone is celebrating the birth of the king. Some parade on boats in the canals with music, beer and orange accessories or clothes (Orange is the national color here – the color of the Dutch royal family – unlike in Lebanon, where it represents a certain party, which I don’t particularly favor – not that I favor any other).
This is a great book: light, fun and pretty straight to the point. That was not a bookstore. For some reason, the shop owner decided to display random items / objects in the vitrine. Nothing made sense and he just did not give a f**k.
If Amsterdam was a season, it should definitely be Autumn. It constantly feels like you’re walking in a painting. This photo was taken in Vondelpark, a must visit for a stroll, a bike ride, a book read or just to sit on the grass and enjoy the silence (as long as it lasts; it’s pretty busy in summer)
Maastricht, what a beauty. It is one of my favorite cities in The Netherlands; old and picturesque. The red stones of Saint John’s cathedral make it unmissable.
It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas… Around the Rijksmuseum, you can smell hot chocolate, sausages, pea soup, glühwein and maybe skate. Using a chair is not frowned upon; no one expects you to skate like the Dutch.
I was riding my bicycle that day and for the first time I saw that the lakes were frozen. Small ducks were actually walking on ice. Again, I took this photo in Vondelpark.
The first time I was at the gay pride in Amsterdam was by chance in 2008, during a trip around Europe. It was amazing to see how free people can be, to be able to express themselves so openly. I am all for “extreme” (as a friend called such an event) celebrations of love if only to counter hatred towards the gay community in so many parts of the world. May love always win!
Salzburg, twenty years later. This city holds a special place in my heart. It is where I spent a three-months holiday with my sisters, met many interesting people, made friends and put on a lot of weight (thanks to schnitzels and potato salads). Those were incredible times.
Amsterdam by night. Doesn’t it look magical? I was told that all these lamps on the many canals of the city used to be lit by hand back in the eighteenth century. A walk by night here is a must to discover this place under a different light.
Save the best for last: the Bekaa valley. It is a high plateau between Lebanon’s two mountain ranges that serves as the country’s primary agricultural district. It is definitely worthwhile to visit the various towns and villages in and around it, to have lunch at a winery and enjoy the view. This photo was taken from Tawlet Ammiq restaurant.