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About adutchkindoflife

My name is Mona. Originally from Lebanon. Lived most of my life in Beirut with frequent travels to various parts of the world. Decided one day to leave everything behind. Moved to The Netherlands. Currently exploring life in orange.

The day I met Turki

In 2013, I worked for Save the Children Lebanon as a communications and media coordinator. That’s when I met Turki, who was a child at the time, with a heavy burden that no child should carry.

I met him in a tented settlement in the Bekaa Valley on a rainy April day, exceptionally cold and windy for Lebanon. I was accompanying a media crew from ABC Australia to meet new arrivals from Idlib and Aleppo in Syria – refugees who were living in tough conditions with irregular access to water, electricity and food.

On our way back, I noticed that more land on both sides of the road was busy with refugee tents and children running around.

Turki and his family were living there. They arrived from Syria two months ago, after Turki’s father had an accident, falling off the roof where he would sit watching the shelling and explosions. He was still depressed. Turki was in fact the breadwinner for the whole family: five younger brothers and sisters and his mother and father. He was 10 years old.

When I spoke to him, Turki was standing next to an old carriage piled with scrap metal he had been gathering from nearby streets. He was sorting out which pieces he could sell.

“I work every day from 7am until 1pm, gathering scrap metal here and there,” Turki told me. “Then I try to sell the pieces to adults, who scare me sometimes because they beat me”. He made around 15,000 Lebanese Pounds (approx 10 EUR) a day. “Life is not nice here,” he said. “I am sad because my father cannot work, but we need money and I have to bring food for my family.”

Huge responsibilities

A small boy, Turki had responsibilities that would daunt a grown man. His worried look was that of an adult, not a child. After his working day, he finally got to go home to his tent and played marbles with his friends and cousins. This was the only time I saw him smile.

His sisters and brothers were very shy and clung to their mother as if they were scared to leave her. None of them had been to school for the past two years.

Most Syrian children I met were excited to go back to school, make new friends and study for a better future, but not Turki. “I don’t like to go to school,” he told me. “Schools were shelled in Syria. They weren’t safe for us.” If the school were safe, though, he would be prepared to return – except that he had to work. “I don’t want to go back to school,” he said, “but I do hope we can return to Syria, to our home.”

In the meantime, Save the Children was providing help with shelter, education and child protection – necessities then and for the foreseeable future because as Turki said, with the wisdom of the maturity that was being forced on him too soon: “From what I see, it will be a long time before that can happen.”

Today on World Refugee Day, I can’t help but think that Turki is now 15, and still waiting for the deadly conflict to end in his country so he could go back.

Taters* and Sausages

There is a reason why Van Gogh named one of his most famous paintings ‘The Potato Eaters’ – other than to illustrate the poverty of Dutch villagers back then and his love and appreciation for rural Holland. It is the same reason it took me a while to figure out what “Dutch cuisine” is all about; mostly potatoes. I’m only joking. A little. To be fair, it also includes some sausages and other meats, herring (a type of fish eaten raw with onions and pickles – a more daring version of sashimi), a limited number of mashable vegetables, ham and cheese (never without a slice of bread) and a wide range of beers.

A few months after I settled in Amsterdam, a friend of mine visiting me from France asked me if she could bring me some French cheese. “You need some proper food,” she said. “I know the food is not that great in Holland.” (Incidentally, hereby confirming all the angry stereotypes the Dutch hold about the French). I felt she was worried about me until I explained to her that I could get anything here; it’s still the EU, markets are open and trade is flowing, etc… Besides, I loved the one hundred something types of yellow cheeses I could find in almost every shop. She brought French cheese anyway.

The city offers an amazing range of cuisine, from Asian to African to Mediterranean to American, but very few restaurants serve any authentic Dutch dishes. The first ones I’ve tried were homemade. If I had to rank them in order of preference, it would be like this:

Hachee: a traditional beef and onion stew that requires long and slow cooking (thanks brother-in-law Bart!). The super tender meat and rich sauce have wonderful depth of flavor. It is served aside with some cooked beetroot and mashed potatoes. Perfect for cold winter months.

Erwtensoep: this soup is not a starter but a substantial meal. It can be so thick that you can stand a spoon upright in it. Made of split peas and plenty of vegetables with pork sausage – ideally rookworst (very fatty and delicious) on the side. I love it!

Hutspot: a mixture of carrots, onions, parsnips, all mashed, again with rookworst (still fatty and delicious! – but you see the lack of variation) which when served with the gravy, looks like a colorful mashed potato dish. The sugars in the carrot add a hint of sweetness that makes it so yummy.  I tried hutspot for the first time on Sinterklaas.

Among Dutch favorites are also Indonesian and Surinamese food – their presence here being holdovers from the Dutch colonial past, into which I will bravely not venture in my culinary post. I tried the Indonesian rice table for the first time in a restaurant in town. An elaborate meal consisting of many – up to several dozen – small dishes. Kinda like the Lebanese mezze: filling an entire table. It is a melange of sweet, spicy and savory flavors that I find pretty heavy compared to the mediterranean diet. Surinamese roti is just as delicious: ideally in a thick hot bread roll filled with chicken or beef and vegetables or both, a tasty thick dressing and a boiled egg. Just what you need to cure a hangover or a rumbling stomach.

With all this food, in addition to fries with peanut sauce and mayonnaise (called Friet Oorlog), Bitterballen and Frikandel (all deep fried), and the so many kebab, shoarma and falafel snack bars on virtually any street corner, it didn’t take me too long to realize that I needed to watch out for what I was eating here.

It’s not the late 18th century anymore, when potatoes, meat and bread were essential sources of carbohydrates and protein for laborers and farmers. Nowadays, as most of us have sedentary jobs, it is quite a challenge to get rid of all these calories. Avoiding an additional layer of belly fat or wider hips will require a few laps around De Vondelpark. Cycling is not enough, especially for those like me, who, unlike most Dutch people, are not that tall.

So in no time at all, I went back to my hummus, salads and home cooked meals with olive oil instead of butter. And my own potato eater likes it too.

*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYiCPmwOV4A

Bangkok, Again

When I traveled to Thailand for the first time in 2012, I remember thinking this is a place where I could spend a couple of years. Bangkok was fascinating. I was overwhelmed by its tall shiny buildings, sky trains, big highways, its hundreds of markets and millions of people. It made Beirut look tiny. We traveled around the country for about three weeks including to Ko Phi Phi, one of the many islands in Southern Thailand. We were close to Cambodia, so we took a cheap flight to Siem Reap to see the extraordinary Angkor Wat temples

People were very friendly and peaceful everywhere we went. Amidst the chaos and long traffic jams in Bangkok, I never heard a single honk or a recognizable curse (I don’t speak Thai though). Losing your temper is very much frowned upon. What a contrast with  Lebanon, where I come from. The Lebanese love nothing better than to lose their temper; the angrier you get, the more satisfying. I was amazed at how many curses I had started using while driving, and grateful I used them only to vent in my car with windows closed.

Bangkok was my first introduction to the Far East. I love how raw and candid life is and how exotic at the same time, knowing obviously that I only scratched the surface. Everything happens outside, on the streets and sidewalks: cooking, eating, drinking, shopping, shouting, laughing, begging, washing dishes, clothes – it’s warm, messy chaos.

I went back last month and stayed for two weeks in Bangkok with a few day trips outside the city. Other than that, I used my time to learn more about the culture, the people, the food, the music, the fashion, and the social and political situation in general.

Bangkok has changed. Most of its street food has been cleared away and those stalls that remain are heavily curtailed by the authorities. It felt like the city lost a bit of its character; the street life and food is Bangkok’s heart and soul. There were more beggars and homeless people sleeping on side walks. On the way back to my hotel at night, I saw more women, men and children curled up in doorways of shops and buildings than five years ago. 

Sex tourism, though, is thriving as usual. I got frustrated every time I saw a bunch of pathetic middle-aged men (mostly western) touching young Thai women. The country’s society seems to be very tolerant towards prostitution. A friend living there explained that prostitution is deeply rooted in Thailand’s history, going back at least six centuries. During a night food tour (which I totally recommend), our guide highlighted that the growth of the sex tourism was greatly fueled by Thailand being an R&R-hotspot for US soldiers during the Vietnam war. It is also, of course, a result of poverty. Women engaging in prostitution are pressured by their families back in their villages to bring money back from the city. Eventually parents hope heir daughters will marry a ‘rich’ western who will in turn provide for the entire family.

The national mourning period over the deceased Thai king came to an end in October 2017. An artist / painter I met in a small hidden gallery in Bangkok told me that people have started wearing colorful clothes again, that 7-Eleven shops (a huge chain of supermarkets) were allowed to sell alcohol again, that people could smile again. I asked him about the political situation. He sighed and said: “There is no real democracy here. It only looks like it on the outside.” The 29-year-old artist was planning to leave to Europe to pursue his studies. He was not very hopeful, despite the upcoming elections in 2018. 

After the military coup in 2014, life has not been the same in Thailand. News media and even social media are monitored closely, corruption is on the rise, as are prices. The gap between the rich and poor is widening further. Liberals are not hopeful about the future of their country’s democracy.

But hey, tourists can still have a good time – what can I say, I’m trying to end on a happy note. If you’re planning to come to Bangkok, here’s another of my little travel lists:

Steve cafe and cuisine right at the Chao Praya river and a great way to get there is to hop on a public boat.

WTF gallery and café is a very cool bar / gallery offering great cocktails and exhibitions by local artists.

Banya is a street close to Double Tree by Hilton Hotel with only Japanese restaurants and bars; kind of little Japan.

Bookshop bar was under renovation when I was there. Apparently it has a fascinating interior and a unique vibe.

Havana Social is a totally hidden bar. Its entrance is the one of a massage parlor. You need to call a number and type a code to get in. Communist revolutionary chants and speeches are played over and over in the toilets. 

Lumpini park is nice to visit once the sun is down. Just walk around and watch or take part in outdoor yoga classes. 

Chatuchak weekend market is a must. I have never been exposed to so many choices that I ended up being very confused and not buying anything except for food. You can find everything, literally. 

Patom Organic Living offers traditional organic Thai delicacies in additional to body care products. I would have never found this place if it wasn’t for a colleague (thanks Patrick!) who lives there and knows his way around.

Cabbages & Condoms is a nice restaurant offering yummy food with a message: use more condoms.

Khaosan Road is a bustling small street in central Bangkok which turns into madness in the late evening. You can’t escape the drunk crowd, the music, the dancing and the cheap food and booze.

…and the Dutch created The Netherlands

The Delta Works on a rainy day (most days are rainy)

You may have heard the saying “God created the earth, but the Dutch created The Netherlands”.  That seemed a teeny weeny little bit arrogant to me at first. The same as saying ‘Lebanon is the Paris (or Switzerland) of the Middle East’. But sure enough, I’m starting to understand the reason behind it.

On one of my trips last year, I visited Friesland, in the North of the country. I’ll never forget standing on a dike, and looking north to the sea, then south – and down! – to the towns built on the other side. All with their chimneys at sea level, separated by a piece of earth with a road on top. It felt as if my eyes were tricking me. I remember telling my husband: ‘I can never live here’. But many Dutch below are happy to, safe and dry. And apparently confident that their government can be trusted to regularly maintain the dams and dikes – not pocket tax money intended to do so – and ensure these folks stay dry while happily riding their silly bicycles a few metres away from the sea lurking above their heads. A Dutch friend once told me that she would never object to paying water tax. She knows that the Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment uses her money to manage water levels and protect the country and its citizens.

Look carefully at the water levels on both sides of the road.

Yep, it’s scary.
Cycling like there’s not a care in the world

Water is everywhere. Even more impressive than the dikes in Friesland are the man-made water works in Zeeland in the South. It was this part of The Netherlands that suffered the ultimate nightmare of the Dutch, the 1953 disaster that made the country confront the sea head on. On 31 January of that year, heavy storms, strong winds and very high tides made the sea rush over and through the old dikes protecting cities and towns in the South-West of the country. The North Sea water stormed in and wiped out houses, farms and streets. Almost two thousand people died, a hundred thousand were evacuated. The enormous destruction and death made the Dutch decide to put everything they had into preventing such a tragedy from ever happening again, to work together to keep the sea out for good.

It was a rainy day (like almost every other day in this miserable excuse for a summer) when we bent our upper bodies forward and braved the strong head winds on our way to the Oosterscheldekering, one of the largest dam-like inventions in the country. From a distance, all I could see was an endless bridge. When I climbed the stairs and was standing on it, in the middle of a sea arm, I thought: I’ve never been surrounded by so much water. With a simple push-button, barriers can be dropped to the bottom of the sea when it rises dangerously high. Hundreds of thousands of people’s lives depend on this thing keeping out the North Sea when it’s told to do so. It was absolutely frightening, and so impressive. How the hell did the Dutch build this?

It took nearly fifty years and almost ten billion guilders (equivalent to five billion euros back then). The result is the Delta Works. If you look at the pictures linked to this post, you’ll see what I mean. This huge project consists of over 10,000 miles of dikes and a total of 13 dams and barriers, their sole role being to protect people and their lands. It is at the same time environmentally friendly, allowing fresh and salt water to mix and fish to migrate, with several movable barriers that close off the sea during extreme storms. The Dutch now control the sea, not the other way around.

More land is reclaimed all the time, and entire towns are still built on what used to be water. With The Netherlands being one of the most densely populated countries in the world, the Dutch solution to creating more space is to steal more land from the sea. Every now and then they concede a bit of land to water, if they must (like in the Room for the River project). The Dutch have also figured out how to build a functioning transportation network on, around, over, under and through water, with amazing bridges and endless tunnels. They have transformed their threatening surroundings into beautiful canals, lakes, rivers and windmills. Constant anticipation and flood control by water engineering experts continue to be a priority as sea level rises and fifty-five per cent of the country remains either below sea level or heavily flood-prone. The Dutch water management system works perfectly.

Contrary to many people who feel zen when near the sea, I wanted to move back onto actual solid land very quickly. That’s when we went back to our hotel for a break in the charming medieval town of Middelburg, the capital of Zeeland. We chose to stay at one of the oldest hotels there, and were upgraded to a Baroque suite at Aan de Dam hotel (thanks guys!). It has an antique ambience, with classic furniture and hundreds of LP records of Elvis Presley, Bob Dylan, Nina Simone and Jimi Hendrix among others. This was enough to put us back on track for a romantic night.

Middelburg
Mysterious girl in the Baroque Suite

What’s on your autumn reading list?

Endless sunshine and warm summer weather don’t last forever here. Autumn has started and with temperatures below 13 degrees Celsius, grey skies, wind and rain, you’d better get creative and think about how you’re going to spend the coming months. You’ve done most of the museums and galleries. You have your Cineville cultural slash artsy cinema subscription. You went to the new cafés and bars and spent all your money. Netflix is getting a boring. 

What’s left to do? If, like me, you’ve started reading several books at the same time without finishing any, then this is the time to do it. Curl up on your nice comfy sofa, sit down in front of your window with a cup of tea or a glass of wine, and start reading. Some books are old, others more recent. 

Here goes:

The Nix, by Nathan Hill

A New York Times bestseller. A writer/teacher is confronted his mother after she abandoned her family when he was a boy. Now she is in trouble, needs his help, and the unexplained past comes tumbling back in unexpected ways.

The bazar of bad dreams, by Stephen King

A great collection of creepy stories that I stupidly started reading right before going to bed. King freaks me out every time he brings up evil children – which he loves doing.

The casual vacancy, by J.K. Rowling

A councillor cherished by the people of a small town suddenly dies. A conflict ensues before the election for his successor takes places and those running soon find themselves and those around them locked in conflict. A wonderfully intricate book about ordinary people and dark secrets, where every reader will find a character that makes them feel embarrassed when they realise: I do that, too.

Sodome et Gomorrhe, by Marcel Proust

My attempt to read this book has been a long journey. There are many characters involved in a fancy dinner party where it is revealed that the baron has many affairs, including with young men. Public façades among the bourgeoisie are compared with how the characters act in private. 

Dertiendagh, by Maria Postema and Maarten Bruns

A book written by a cool friend which I think will be great for my Dutch. It is the story of two kids exploring an ancient bunker. But mysteries start unfolding along the way.

Le second sex Tom I et II, by Simone De Beauvoir 

I bought these two books when the #metoo campaign started. I wanted to know more about feminism and how women were treated throughout history. Many examples and comparisons show that although women have come a long way, society still considers them as “the other”. I chose to read this book in French because I heard in different places that the English translation is not faithful to the original book.

Crime et châtiment, by Fiodor Dostoïevski

A story on the mental anguish and moral dilemmas of an impoverished ex-student in Saint Petersburg who formulates and executes a plan to kill an unscrupulous pawnbroker for her cash.

Nutshell, by Ian McEwan

This book is quite funny. It is about a fetus in the womb of his mother discovering that the latter is plotting a murder with her boyfriend. 

 صوت العالم لمخائيل نعيمة 

I bought this book in Pages bookstore Café, which is run by a group of Syrian refugees in Amsterdam. Mikhail Naimy talks about human suffering among civilians after the second world war. The author was a soldier in the American army.

Beirut 39: New writing from the Arab World, by Samuel Shimon

I found this book also in a small bookstore in Amsterdam. It includes 39 pieces by Arab writers under 40 which take you through individual lives that are specific to their locations.

Warriors of God, by Nicholas Blanford

I started reading this book a long time ago but have not finished it yet. It is fascinating to be able to know more about the most powerful militant group and political party Hezbollah, particularly for me as a Lebanese.

Ik was een van hen, by Maarten Zeegers

The writer goes “undercover” as a muslim in one of the neighborhoods of The Hague. He portrays inhabitants with empathy and gives insight in their day to day life and views on islam and on Dutch society. 

I speak for Lebanon, by Kamal Jumblatt

I borrowed this book and never returned it. It is a summary of Jumblatt’s political testament and memoirs which was completed shortly before he was assassinated.

Any other suggestions? Put them in the comments!

Petiscos and Ginja*

Good wine, good food and good company are some of life’s most civilised pleasures, someone said. Add to that warm weather and Fado music and you’ll find yourself in Lisbon, one of the most underrated cities in Europe. If you appreciate the simple joie de vivre like me, you must visit this beautiful Portuguese city.

Time moves slowly and days feel longer, in a good way. People enjoy the warm, crisp evenings until well into the night, at least they did during my September visit, but still manage to go to work in the morning. During my short holiday, I made sure not to get up so early. My day started around ten with a short hop to the nearby bakery for coffee and delicious pastries, particularly pastéis de nata, my favourite. Then I was back to my small cozy apartment on the foot of one of Lisbon’s many hills to enjoy my sweet breakfast. Using Airbnb allowed me a glimpse of how locals live. After spending a week, people in my street started greeting me as if I’d  always been living in the neighbourhood.

Around noon, it is time to go out. Take one of the small and colourful trams that regularly go up and down the hills overlooking the water. Head to a viewpoint, or a miradouro, as the Portuguese call it. Each offers wonderful views: monumental architecture and buildings often decorated with blue, white or green ceramic tiles brought by the Moors in the Middle Ages; panoramic scenery; the city’s port; and the 25 de Abril Bridge, a smaller version of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Fransisco. Grab a drink and have a long break.

Getting hungry yet? I am. Alfama, the oldest district of Lisbon, has many places that serve traditional Portuguese gastronomy as well as international cuisine. I felt right at home, with the Portuguese custom of eating various small plates of food. Petiscos, similar to the Spanish Tapas and my own beloved Lebanese Mezze. And of course: Vinho Verde, the unique made-in-Portugal-only green wine; young, cool, summery, light and low in alcohol.

While walking around the streets of cobblestone in Lisbon, I made regular stops on the long stairs to look at the buildings. In some areas the difference between various constructions was staggering; completely renovated apartments with shiny ceramic tiles on their facades, standing next to almost crumbling houses with broken shutters and no windows. When I asked for the reason, I was told that many often elderly tenants pay extremely low rents, frozen by an old law decades ago. So the owners can’t afford upkeep, buildings are in shambles. It reminded me of Beirut: some policy set in motion at some point because it served some populist politician, or even seemed wise at the time, but nobody bothered to look at the long-term consequences.

The last economic crisis hit the country hard. Although it is recovering very slowly, many elderly have to live off pensions 250 or 300 euros a month, which allows for very little. Youth unemployment remains high, many people beg on the streets, people complain about corruption in various official departments. That’s how locals explained their current situation, a big contrast with the more prosperous Northern Europe. But I am no expert on Portugal, merely an observer and obviously a curious listener to whatever the locals have to tell about their country.

I still loved the vibe in Lisbon. It feels way more leftist and hippie than in Amsterdam: more graffiti, young people never seem to be in a rush, the streets are full with endless kiosks, small casual restaurants and bars – rather than luxurious or sophisticated diners –  prices are affordable. The coast is lined with a sandy beach, the water looks super clean. It is the perfect location to watch the sunset. Grab a glass of cold Sangria and sit on a bench to enjoy the amazing tones of orange, pink and yellow.

All in all, an ideal destination for a long and relaxing stay.

*Ginja is a sweet cherry liqueur that originated in Lisbon. You can drink it in a small chocolate shot and the trick is not to eat the shot in order to have a refill. It’s terribly good.

Lives on hold

I recently translated a short documentary on a Syrian refugee family in the Bekaa, East of Lebanon. They had left Syria in 2012 and have been living in Lebanon ever since. It was the first time in more than a year of being in The Netherlands that I got in touch with anything related to Syria. To be honest, I only met a couple of Syrian young men in Amsterdam during my Dutch classes. They had already been living and working in the country for almost two years. Watching this documentary made me emotional. It brought me back to my days in the Bekaa where I spent a lot of time listening to refugees’ stories and trying not to lose hope as years went by and very little changed in their situation. 

It all seems so far away here. Or maybe I am no longer that much involved as I used to be- being caught up in my own integration process and all. But on this  World Refugee Day, I couldn’t help but think of that Syrian refugee family in the documentary and many others who are still waiting to move on with their lives. In 2011, when I went for the first time to Wadi Khaled in North Lebanon with the purpose of organizing recreational activities for Syrian children who fled Syria with their families, I thought this was temporary. It’s been over six years now and all I can think of today are the changes that can happen to a person’s life in such a long period. Think of what happened in your life in the past six years. 

I started my third decade, got married, have two beautiful nephews – one of them is already going to school – moved jobs, got promoted, traveled to Asia for the first time, lost family members and friends, made new friendships, learned a new language, migrated. While the lives of those refugee families I met are still on hold. And they have been on hold for so long. 

On World Refugee Day, I think of them all. I hope they will be able to resume living soon. 

If I could vote in The Netherlands

I have never voted. I’m not proud of it, but in my country elections’ results are usually known way in advance. Besides, you can only vote for candidates in the village where your father comes from (or your husband, after you marry) – don’t get me started on women’s rights – even if you have never lived there. Or if it’s on the other side of the country. So your choices are quite limited. And pointless. Lebanese politicians also often manage to pass on their position to their sons, sons in law or cousins (by mobilising or intimidating enough people to vote for them).

Some of them don’t age or die. I remember that when I was a kid, I thought our speaker of parliament was a vampire. He has been holding his position for over 25 years and he looks exactly the same as when I was a kid. And acts the same. He just is. No matter how many elections pass by.

Now that I am in the Netherlands, and although I cannot vote (not yet at least), I am following the parliamentary elections closely. Like many Dutch, I turned to an online guide to know where I stand – obviously out of curiosity – in today’s elections. What you go through in this quiz, is a series of propositions that have been debate topics or were brought up by the various parties. They focus on immigrants and refugees, culture and art, infrastructure, health care, euthanasia for the elderly, discrimination in recruitment, permanent and flex contracts, obligatory unpaid work for youth (only baby boomers come up with that), etc. You answer ‘agree’, ‘disagree’, ‘neither,’ or skip the question. And voilà, you get your parties ranked by percentage of agreement with your answers.

Being an immigrant amidst the rise of far-right politicians and populism in Europe made me want to understand as much as possible the changes that are happening to the Dutch political scene as they will affect my life in the next four years. I answered all 30 questions in the quiz, with my husband explaining from time to time some Dutch words I did not understand and of course trying to influence my answers. It did not work though, I was pretty firm with him.

At the Top 1 and 2 were Denk and Artikel 1 at 66%, with ChristenUnie at 62% and D66 at 59%. I didn’t expect these results, especially that I never heard of Denk or Artikel 1 before. My first choice was actually D66 followed by GroenLinks. The bottom line is that you need to have a thorough look at the history and future plan of every party before you vote. As I heard, some parties – like the PvdA (labor party) – have made many promises in the past that did not lead to positive results in practice.

Polls close at nine in the evening and preliminary results are expected around midnight. Here’s to hoping.

A quirky language called Dutch

Why on earth would somebody spend countless hours on a language hardly anybody speaks outside this small country – except in other small countries as well? On my way to De Vrije Universiteit where I started following Dutch classes, I repeat phrases and – frankly – sometimes ridiculous words on my bicycle trying not to get hit after a long workday.

In between moving and settling in The Netherlands, I stopped taking lessons but I tried to keep up by going to meet-ups with expats to practice some Dutch together, read magazines, follow the news, listen to the radio and to popular Dutch songs, and watch TV – mostly “De Wereld Draait Door”, a play on words meaning both ‘the world keeps on turning’ and ‘the world is spinning out of control’. My Dutch has improved to the extent that I now confuse it with Spanish, which I learned in my early twenties at university.

Although most people speak English here, and you can certainly spend your entire life not learning the local language, I figured that if I don’t, I will never really get to know the country or feel at home. So I embarked on a long discovery of one of the quirkiest languages I’ve ever studied (I speak three fluently and have taken classes in several others, like German, Spanish and Japanese). Being a linguist and a translator, I couldn’t help but try to find similarities and differences between Dutch and Arabic, my mother tongue. One of the very few things the two languages have in common is: the letter “kh” or “خ” (the hard, guttural ‘g’, as written in Dutch). That’s just about where the resemblance stops. Arabic is more sophisticated, way less direct, very poetic and musical – although this may seem hard to believe when most Arab men and women you see in Homeland are angrily shouting all the time. But really, we can sing too.

If I compare Dutch to French or Spanish, “beautiful” is perhaps not the first (or second) adjective I would use to describe it. With time though, I actually got to love the language, including the sound of it. To my advantage, the Dutch have borrowed many French words as they were once occupied by France – a historical fact that no one likes to talk about. Words like: abonnement, argumenteren, bizar, champignon, formulier, hypotheek, illegaal, paraplu, pauze, plafond, situatie, among others come from French. This is great news for me as it expands my Dutch vocabulary with little to no effort.

Sadly, learning this new language is not just for fun. Since I arrived to The Netherlands a year ago, I have been receiving a letter every couple of months urging me to learn more Dutch by mid 2019 (Three letters so far!). No directions as to where to do it, really, just a letter in Dutch saying I have to learn the language and threatening consequences if I don’t. More on that in another blog post.

When I was little, my father used to tell me that learning multiple languages is like having several personalities. It opens up your horizons and allows you to learn about different cultures. As a Lebanese, I grew up speaking two languages, Arabic and French and was taught English at a later stage in school. Speaking several languages was a natural thing for me (and many other Lebanese) to do.

I find the Dutch language fascinating because it tells you so much about the people. It is so clear, logical and direct, which makes it totally different from Arabic, where words rarely carry a simple straightforward meaning. There are wonderful, tell-it-like-it-is words the Dutch have invented for various touchy subjects that reflect the character of this country most. For example:

– “Coffin” means “Tabout” or “تابوت” in Arabic which comes from the verb “Tab” or “تاب” meaning “to repent”. Quite a deep religious connotation right? In Dutch, “coffin” becomes simply “doodskist” which translates into “death-chest”. You see what I mean;

– “Dakloos” means literally “without a roof” or roofless and has the Arabic equivalent of “Mousharrad” “مشرّد”. The latter carries a deeper meaning which reflects the image of someone who lost his home or his land;

– Ambulance becomes “ziekenauto” or “a car for the sick” in Dutch. While in Arabic it turns into “sayyarat es’aaf” or “سيارة إسعاف” which means literally “a car for relief”;

– Earrings mean “oorbellen” in Dutch which translates into “ear bells” (for humans, not cows);

– Gloves become “handschoenen” or “hand shoes”;

– Pedestrian crossing means “zebrapad” or “zebra path”;

– Toilet seat means “WC bril” in Dutch which implies that the seat looks like one side of a pair of glasses;

– Dictionary is “woordenboek” or “book of words”. In Arabic, the word is “qamous” which refers to a great sea (of words, in this case).

I can go on. And just when I thought I found an equivalent in Lebanese Arabic to “gezellig” – the Dutch elaborate description of coziness, warmth and friends in one word – it turned out the word I found did not capture the entire meaning. I thought of “Moukankan” or “مكنكن” which is a very cute word implying feeling warm and comfortable in a small place, always with a bottle of red wine. Just joking on that last part. In fact, the word gezellig reminds me of “Toqborneh” or “تقبرني” which, in the same way, has no real equivalent in any language other than Arabic. It is said to a loved one and it means you wish to die before them, thus them burying you so you never have to live a day without them. Gezellig hè? I don’t think any word in any other language can beat that.

So there you have it, a language mixing various influences and cutting out any overly tedious attempts at softening or dressing up the meaning of things. Kind of like the Dutch. It can be a breath of fresh air, this bluntness. But sometimes, I long for the promise of something mundane carrying the potential meaning of vast and dreamy; a great sea yet to be discovered. Even if it’s only a book of words.

Mijn first Sinterklaas

Yesterday was this time of the year when the Dutch celebrate Sinterklaas. Obviously, de Goedheiligman has not made his way to Lebanon because I never remember celebrating the arrival of any Sint as a child myself. There was only Christmas for us, with the American Santa Claus. However, ever since I have been around Dutch people, I noticed how excited both adults and children get whenever we talk about the Sinterklaas event. I’d rather avoid getting close to the “Zwarte Pieten” debate, but in all cases, the color of the pieten (the Sint’s helpers) doesn’t seem to matter. He could be red, pink or green and still, people, at least the ones I met, would enjoy celebrations, gifts and sweets just about the same.

We decided to celebrate the weekend before the actual arrival day of the Sint, with a bunch of friends. For my fellow Lebanese who never heard of him, Sinterklaas or Saint Nicholas is an old tradition in The Netherlands. The man was a bishop in the 4th century in the town of Myra in Turkey. It is known that he was very generous and helpful particularly towards the poor and needy. Now, children put their shoes in front of the fire in the hope that Sinterklaas will fill them with a small present or a chocolate goody. I am still not sure though why his last stop before getting here is in Spain. I asked my Dutch language teacher about it but he did not know either. So if any of you know the reason, feel free to write it down in the comments’ section.

Going back to our preparations for the celebration evening, we invited close friends and agreed to exchange small gifts and poems. The main dish for dinner was hutspot, an authentic Dutch winter meal made of potatoes, carrots, onions, sausage and gravy made by my husband while wearing an inappropriate apron. I managed miraculously to bring in a salad as an entrée if only to create a balance between all the carbs and sweets. Wine glasses were clinking, sinterklaasliedjes were playing in the background with Dutch friends singing along. My Lebanese friend and I sticked to dancing. The ambiance was warm, friendly and joyful. Heel Gezellig!

It was time for us to read the poems and open the presents – which we did not hide inside a homemade “surprise”. Some wrote in English, others in Dutch or in both. More wine, more pepernoten, meringues, cupcakes, chocolate, nuts (our personal touch) and the list goes on. We had already started a whatsapp group a couple of weeks earlier for updates on the event (yes that’s how serious it is here). Those who were less experienced were stressing a bit, about how to put together the traditional Sinterklaas poem: a rhyming text that pokes fun at your target while letting a little bit of warm feelings show through. 

With some effort (and support from Google and other websites), I put one together in English – rhyming in Dutch is of yet a bridge too far. Maybe next year :). It goes a little something like this:

I couldn’t though help but notice, the love he has for music.

He had it all: English, French and Arabic”.

“Hmm”, uttered the Sint. “I think I know”.

He reached out for a small thick book hanging on a hook,

It was full of color from cover to cover, meant for Elias to discover.

Despite the cold, the wind, the storm and the rain,

Which Sinterklaas does not experience in Spain.

On December the second, he traveled with Piet,

To visit Elias in The Hague and make his mission complete.

“Enjoy the book”, said the Sint on his way out.

“You have been a great friend this year, about that there is no doubt”.

My Sint got me warm stuff to wear in winter on the bicycle, along with a bit of cynical poetry – this Sint having spent time in the Middle East himself 🙂

Ma’ Salama Sinterklaas

Sint dacht er heel lang over na

En begon dit gedicht toen toch maar met: Marhaba Mona

Eigenlijk had de Sint een persconferentie willen inlassen

Om te zeggen dat hij het kinderfeest nog verder wil aanpassen

Vanaf nu, zei Sint, is mijn naam: Abu Klaas

En wie daar problemen mee heeft: jammer maar helaas

Mijn pieten heten voortaan Mukhabarat

En ook de kinderliedjes ben ik een beetje zat

Voortaan zingen we: Zie ginds komt de shishaboot uit Libanon weer aan

Hij brengt ons Abu Klaas ik zie hem al staan

Ja, Abu Klaas wil het feestje over een hele ander boeg gooien

En voortaan alleen nog maar met falafel strooien

Ach de Sint is die pietendiscussie helemaal moe

Vanaf volgend jaar is de regel: Wie zoet is krijgt hummus en wie stout is…

moet naar Israël toe.